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【我的中國夢】巴西人西莫茲的中國騎行之旅

Blazing pedals

中國日報網 2014-07-17 16:46

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【我的中國夢】巴西人西莫茲的中國騎行之旅
圖為巴西騎行者丹尼扎特?西莫茲于6月初在上海進行他的第三次中國行。(圖/中國日報)
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Former car mechanic Denizart Simoes has been cycling across 50 nations for the past 14 years, from the southern tip of Patagonia, where South America meets the Antarctic, to Egypt. The Brazilian plans to set a new Guinness World Record next month on Chinese territory with the aim to break German traveler Heinze Stucke's cycling record of 400,000 kilometers, set in 1995. It took Stucke two decades to achieve the milestone.

"Chinese people don't understand why I do it. Of course I'm trying to beat Stucke's record. He was my hero, when I was far away from him, but not so much anymore. But the main reason was to stop smoking," says Simoes. "I'd also split with my woman, so that was another reason."

Fittingly, the 50-year-old hopes to rewrite the tour record while at Chinese Taipei wearing a soccer jersey covered with red dragons: the logo of his home team Sao Paulo F.C.

"Standing still is boring. But if you keep moving, it's always something new. That's why I want to finish in Taiwan, which is where all the bike factories are," he says.

He dreams of being sponsored someday by Magura, a German company coveted for its forks and hydraulic brakes, with presence in Taiwan.

Simoes, who resembles a fiery but frazzled Super Mario gaming character after so much time on the road, claims to have put 395,000 km on his chronometer. This puts him about 5,000 km shy of Stucke's achievement. The additional 200,000 km that Simoes spent on planes, trains and automobiles was "collateral damage."

With four saddle bags, a tent, a large Brazilian flag and scores of photo albums, Simoes was holed up at the Latina Brazilian BBQ restaurant in Shanghai's Xujiahui locality last week to catch the early games of the 2014 World Cup.

The printed photographs, with their faded colors and frayed edges, point to how the world has changed since Simoes started his journey in 2000. Even his bike, a 24-gear Schwinn, is now made in Taiwan. When he started out, the factory was still in the United States. But globalization has since changed the industrial landscape.

"Everything was even more different when Stucke set his record. It was before the Internet," he says. "It was much easier back then. He could make money just by selling a single photograph to the BBC."

Norway has the toughest terrain for bikers and Liverpool is his favorite city because of the Beatles, he says of his tours and mentions a wild three-month love affair with a British woman.

He says he fled Cairo in three hours after seeing another cyclist die in a hit-and-run incident and describes the city as the "scariest place on Earth."

Simoes has documents and police records to back up pretty much every story he tells.

Stucke was also reportedly beaten unconscious by soldiers in Egypt, attacked by bees in Mozambique, and hit by a truck in Chile, Simoes says.

Meat is a luxury in Simoes' line of work, which most of the time involves being broke, homeless and hauling heavy luggage around trails and roads for 80-100 km a day. His record is 135 km, in the flat-as-a-pancake Netherlands.

Another luxury is disposable income, unless he manages to find sponsors. Petrobras Singapore gave him $3,000 after he visited the Brazilian embassy on the island state then went door knocking to get in touch with local Brazilian companies.

Most of the time, Simoes survives on a Spartan diet of vitamins, fruit, orange juice, bread and milk. "But not too much milk these days," he says, rubbing his stomach and grimacing.

His battle against time, poverty, elements of nature and bandits - from Mexico to Shenzhen - has taken its toll on him. Digestive issues apart, he has been robbed repeatedly. But a powerful internal drive has kept him going.

His Panasonic camera and Samsung smartphone were robbed at a train station in southern China last year, but he was reluctant to mention this because China is famed for its hospitality.

He was also robbed of his belongings and two front teeth in Mexico by a group of thugs who hit him in the face with a brick on a highway one night. He doesn't remember the date though.

He also struggled to spell the name of his bike, despite it being printed on the frame, and getting him to retrace his route was difficult at times. But then, 14 years is a long time, and his globe-trotting has been anything but linear: Simoes skipped North America due to visa issues but pinballed back and forth across Europe using Switzerland as a base camp.

He is now on his third trip to China. After Shanghai, his next stop will be Fuzhou in Fujian province - if his visa doesn't run out first.

Although it is unclear when he decided to try and beat Stucke's record, Simoes' journey has already gained him a modicum of fame.

"I think I can finish in 30 days, if I ride consistently," he says. "But it always depends on money."

How will be celebrate once it's over? "Maybe with a glass of wine. But definitely no cigarettes."

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從南美洲與南極洲交匯的巴塔哥尼亞到埃及,前汽車修理師丹尼扎特?西莫茲(Denizart Simoes)在過去的14年中騎車穿越了50個國家和地區。這位巴西人計劃7月份在中國創造一項新的吉尼斯紀錄。他希望打破德國旅行家海因茲?斯圖克(Heinze Stucke)于1995年創立的40萬千米的騎行記錄。斯圖克花了20年才完成這件劃時代的事件。

“中國人不理解我為什么要這樣做。我當然是為了打破斯圖克的記錄。他是我的英雄,過去我離他很遙遠,現在不再那么遙遠啦。但最主要的原因還是為了戒煙。”他說,“與妻子離婚也是一部分原因。”

這位50歲的巴西人希望刷新這項旅行記錄,終點在臺灣。他會穿著一件印有紅龍的足球運動衫,那是他家鄉球隊圣保羅足球俱樂部的標志。

“紋絲不動太無聊,但如果你一直保持前進,那事情就大不相同了。這就是我想要在臺灣結束的原因。臺灣有很多自行車廠。”他說。

他夢想有一天可以獲得德國瑪古拉的贊助,得到夢寐以求的前叉和液壓碟剎,這些現在都已出現在臺灣。

在路上騎行了這么長時間后,西莫茲看起來很像熱情又疲憊的超級馬里奧游戲里的男主人公,他說他已經騎行了39萬5000千米了,離斯圖克的紀錄只差5000千米。此外西莫茲還花費在飛機、火車和汽車上20萬千米。

6月中旬,西莫茲寄宿在位于徐家匯的上海拉美風格的燒烤餐廳,他在那里觀看了2014世界杯的早期比賽。他的隨行物品有四個袋子、一頂帳篷、一面巴西國旗以及數本相冊。

這些已經褪色磨損的打印照片見證了2000年以后世界的改變,那時西莫茲剛開始他的旅程。還有他的愛車,一輛24寸施文牌自行車,現在在臺灣制造,而2000年時,施文自行車廠仍在美國。全球化已經改變了世界工業格局。

“斯圖克創下記錄時與現在有很大不同。那時沒有互聯網。”他說,“那時很簡單,他賣張照片給BBC便可以賺錢。”

挪威地形對騎行者來說是最艱難的。出于披頭士的原因,利物浦是他最喜歡的城市。他還告訴了我們一段為期三個月的風流韻事,女主角是一位英國女士。

在開羅,他親眼目睹了一場肇事逃逸事件,受害者也是一位騎行者,然后他用三個小時的時間逃離了開羅。他稱這座城市是“世界上最可怕的地方”。

西莫茲手里有文件資料和出警記錄,這都大大增加了他所講故事的真實性。

斯圖克也被報道在埃及被士兵打得神智不清,在莫桑比克遭遇蜜蜂襲擊,在智力遭遇車禍,西莫茲說。

在西莫茲這一行業,肉是奢侈品。他們大部分時間都缺少錢財、無家可歸、拖著沉重的行李,每天要騎行80到100千米。西莫茲最好的成績是一天騎行135千米,那是在地形平坦的荷蘭。

另一項奢侈品是可支配收入,除非有贊助商愿意資助他。巴西石油公司新加坡辦事處曾給了他3000美元,在那之前,西莫茲拜訪了巴西駐新加坡大使館,然后敲開了巴西公司的大門。

西莫茲大部分時間依賴斯巴達式飲食過活,他吃維生素、水果、面包,喝果汁和牛奶。“但是最近都沒有喝很多牛奶。”他愁眉苦臉地按著肚子說到。

從墨西哥到深圳,時間、貧窮、惡劣天氣和土匪強盜處處刁難著他。除了飲食問題,他還經常被搶劫。但內心的強大動力驅使著他前進。

他的松下相機和三星智能手機去年在中國南方被搶,但他不想提這件事,因為中國以熱情好客聞名。在墨西哥,有一晚他的行李在一條高速公路上被一群暴徒搶去,他們用磚頭打他的臉,他還被砸掉兩顆門牙。具體日期他也記不清楚了。

他掙扎著拼寫他自行車的名字,盡管車子橫梁上有印刷,它時時提醒著他旅途的艱難。14年是很長的一段時間,但他的環球旅行絕不是線性的:由于簽證問題,西莫茲跳開了北美,他以瑞士為大本營,來來回回地穿越歐洲。

現在是他第三次來中國了。上海之后的目的地是福建福州—假如他的簽證還沒過期的話。

盡管西莫茲決定何時去嘗試打破斯圖克的記錄還不清楚,但西莫茲的旅行已經為他帶來一點兒名氣了。

“如果我不停地騎,我想我可以在30天內完成任務。”他說,“但還是得看下花費。”

任務完成后要怎么慶祝呢?“可能會喝杯酒吧,但絕不會抽煙。”

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【我的中國夢】巴西人西莫茲的中國騎行之旅 【我的中國夢】巴西人西莫茲的中國騎行之旅

(中國日報記者Matt Hodges)

 

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